Roaring 20's Fashion
By Samantha Cleaver
How the 1920’s Changed Women’s Lives
You must’ve been conveniently temporarily deaf and blind in History Class if you weren’t aware of the oppression and restrictions against women in the Victorian Era. Employment was non-existent for married women, their place was in the kitchen and wearing makeup and showing off your knees was a big No-No. Then the First World War happened. Men were sent to war and women had to step up and take over the reins of employment and financial responsibility. Sleeves were rolled up, hats were worn, and hair was cut shorter to prevent it getting in the way. Skirts and dresses were seen as hazardous so women started to wear their husband’s trousers to work. Women got their first taste of freedom and independence in the public sphere. A brand new world just opened up to them…
The 1920’s not only became a historic era for the movement of women’s rights as they fought for their right to vote, but also women’s perceptions of how they should look, behave and think started to change. So what actually happened back then that went on to change the course of women’s lives to this day?
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Fighting against social norms through Fashion
Fashion in the 1920’s started to make its appearance on the front page of magazines and newspapers when unconventional and exuberant celebrities started to endorse fashion that represented freedom of movement and independence. These influential women wore short skirts, unrestricted brightly coloured clothes, cloche hats and striking scarves and stockings. These famous movie stars were idolised by millions of women around the world who started to follow these extravagant trends and styles. ‘Bobbed’ hairstyles were sported by women, make up started to appear on their faces and their attitudes became strong and fierce.
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​After experiencing the extreme comfort and freedom of their husband’s trousers during the war, it was only a matter of time before women started to fight for their right to wear pants. This even lead to a woman in 1919 being arrested for wearing trousers in public in Puerto Rico. Luckily, later the judge dropped the charge against her.
Anna May Wong -
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Considered to be the first Chinese American Hollywood movie star, as well as the first Chinese American actress to gain international recognition. Her long and varied career spanned silent film, sound film, television, stage, and radio.
Marlene Dietrich
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In her teens, she gave up music to explore acting. She appeared in her first film, Tragedy of Love, in 1923. She explored notions of feminism with her femme fatale roles in films, such as in the film Morocco.
Coco Chanel Inspiration
The biggest advocate in the fashion industry in this era was fashion designer Coco Chanel who dared to introduce male clothing onto the catwalk. She used male themes such as sailor outfits, mechanic’s dungarees and tailored suits. She also introduced the chemise - a loose fitting undergarment that replaced the confining, tight fitting corsets of the Victorian Era and the Knickerbocker - she borrowed the knickerbockers or jodhpurs trouser fashion from men as a comfortable and practical form of dress for female aviators of the era and was often accompanied by a shirt and tie. Coco Chanel is credited with liberating women from the fashion constraints they had to endure such as corsets, tight fitting clothing and uncomfortable swimwear.
Before the 1920's, make-up and cosmetics were not accepted in society as it was associated with loose living. This changed in the Roaring Twenties as women copied the make-up and cosmetics used by movie stars.
1920’s fashion represented free spirited, modern women who were frustrated and tired of the repressing society they lived in and wanted to free themselves from society’s shackles.
Before Coco Chanel
Victorian styled corset dresses
After Coco Chanel
Chemise style dresses
1920’s fashion still lives on…
Fashion as we see it today has changed significantly from the the Roaring 20’s flapper days as headgear and flapper dresses are now merely fancy dress costumes for themed parties and events. However, there are some styles that have survived all fashion eras and still going strong today such as the Bias Cut Dress. Dubbed as THE SEDUCTRESS OF FASHION, these dresses slide over the body hugging curves and allowing movement making these dresses extremely comfortable, elegant, timeless and a favourite on the red carpet - a drastic contrast to the rigid corsets of the era which distorted women’s bodies and made them feel extremely uncomfortable for the pleasure of men.
The 1920’s represented an era of change and growth. The decade of learning and exploration. Women had their eyes opened to the world and they wanted more for themselves. They wanted to experiment with everything that was available to men. From employment, alcohol to music and trousers. They wanted Choice. Fun. Freedom. Equality.